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La Gomera
Undeveloped, unspoilt, beautiful island just 45 minutes by fast ferry from Tenerife. Ideal for walkers. Contrast between lush forests around the summit and in the National Park with dry vegetation on the flanks of the island. Of real interest to botanists for its variety of plant life and number of endemic species. Good climate all year round, especially in the south. LanguageSpanish - relatively little English spoken, although menus, etc are usually in three languages. Famous for Silbo - whistling language which was used to communicate across the deep valleys. The local council are trying to revive Silbo, it is now a complulsory (and popular) subject in schools on the island. How to get thereBy ferry from Los Christianos in Tenerife to San Sebastian, though there is also now a passenger ferry direct to Valle Gran Rey, the Garajonay Express. A massive new trimaran has just been introduced on the Fred Olsen route. These ferries are very fast, completing the journey in 45 mins. Other ferries are with Garajonay Express - small hydrofoil which also serves Playa Santiago and Valle Gran Rey. For foot passengers only. May be cancelled at short notice in rough seas. Armas Large, fast ship taking around an hour to San Sebastian The airport near Playa Santiago is served only by local planes from Tenerife Nord airport. Worth a visit to see what a genuine White Elephant looks like! Getting aroundPublic transport is very limited and slow (get the latest, up-to-date timetable from the tourist offices), but it is possible to travel between San Sebastian, Playa Santiago and Valle Gran Rey by hydrofoil. To experience the best of the island you need a car or strong legs or both. Many people combine walking with hitchhiking. Things to seeGarajonay National Park - a UNESCO World Heritage Site - extensive forested area on the top of the island. Trees are irrigated by the mist which sometime covers the top of the island, especially in winter. The trees are covered in mosses and lichens. The forest has an amazing atmosphere in the mist. Highlights include: The Alto de Garajonay (1487 meters above sea level) - the summit of the island. Visit when the mist clears. Good views across to Mount Teide (Tenerife) and to El Hierro and La Palma (neighbouring islands).
Things to doWalking Most visitors come for the top class walking. There are many paths all over the island, from gentle strolls through the rainforest to all day treks. Several firms offer guided walks, which can be useful if you don't have transport or want to do a point to point walk. One of these companies is Timah. They offer guided walks at around 30 EUR each (including the transportation to the starting point of the walk as well as the trip back) with English and German speaking guides. Another company offering walks is Viajes Temocoda. Temocoda's walks are a little bit more expensive but lunch is included in the price. Visit the tourist office in Valle Gran Rey (Calle Lepanto, s/n. La Playa) or the various travel agencies in Valle Gran Rey for information about other providers of walks. Agencies can usually make the booking for you, but at least Timah has an office in Valle Gran Rey (La Puntilla) and you can book your walk there as well. Guided walks can be recommended not only because they include transportation and free you from the infrequent bus service, but the guides will tell you all sorts of interesting tidbits about the island. However, if you decide to set out on your own, get a book which offers detailed descriptions of available routes such The Landscapes of Southern Tenerife and La Gomera by Sunflower Books. A good map in addition to guidebooks is also handy - at least Kompass and Freydag & Berndt offer maps of La Gomera. Normal precautions regarding walking on your own apply on La Gomera, too. Always make sure that somebody knows where you are headed and when you can be expected to return. Pack rain and windproof warm clothing in your daypack even it it's nice and sunny when you leave. Also, don't forget to take a cellphone and a torch with you, drinking water and something to eat. Walking in heavy rain might be dangerous due to rockfalls and landslides. Mountain biking Bike Station Gomera offers guided mountain biking tours of varied difficulty. They also rent bikes and offer a shuttle service up to Laguna Grande in Garajonay national park from where you can ride down on your own. Be careful when riding down as the roads are steep and have tight bends. There are also two tunnels when coming down to Valle Gran Rey. The second and longer one can be circumvented by using the old road instead which goes by the mountain side (it starts on the right hand side of the tunnel entrance). However, extreme care is required as the railings on the old road are not in top notch condition anymore and there are also plenty of big rocks and other debris on the road. When you drive in the tunnels make sure you have a headlight and a backlight (or at least a red reflector) so that cars can see you well ahead. Never ride without a helmet. Relaxing The slow pace of life is contagious, the perfect antidote to stress. Beaches There are beaches at the end of most valleys, of varying quality. Valle Gran Rey has safe sandy beaches at Vueltas and El Charco (literally 'The Puddle'). Swimming can be challenging and even dangerous on the open beaches around the island. Playa la Caleta, near Hermigua, has a bar/restaurant on the beach. There is a semi-nude beach (clothing is optional) called Playa del Ingles behind La Playa in Valle Gran Rey. However, it's rocky and very dangerous for swimming especially when the sea is rough. There is a warning sign on the beach saying that the latest (fatal?) accident happened in the end of 2005, so keep this in mind if you think about taking a dip there. Flora Fascinating sub-tropical vegetation abounds with the Laurisilva forest well worth a visit. Photography La Gomera is so beautiful that photo-opportunities are everywhere. Whale watching Boat trips run from Valle Gran Rey Eating
DrinksExcellent freshly prepared fruit juices and milkshakes are widely available. If you are feeling brave, try parra, the local firewater (similar to Italian grappa) or a Gomeron, which is parra mixed with palm honey. |
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